Ohhh... My Head... - Tour of South America 2006

Yours truly went to South America and had the opportunity to investigate the booming beer scene there. Most of the beer hunting time were spent in Buenos Aires, but also Sabtiago de Chile were visited, and there was some stops elsewhere in northern Argentina, Uruguay, and the Paraná province of Brazil as well.

In Argentina there are supposedly around 200 microbreweries. A lot of these beers are available in bars in downtown Buenos Aires.

The hunt started in Uruguay. A pleasant mistly rural little country located across the Rio de La Palata from the big city of Buenos Aires. However enjoyable the country is, there is no point in going for the beer. A government run brewery provides the country with three bland crappy lagers, and that's it...

After three days travelling the Uruguayan coast it was therefore a relieve beer wise to come to the beer mecca that is Buenos Aires. I met up with some Argentinian friends (Lucho and his girlfriend) and Nicolas (Fukito at Ratebeer) at Gibraltar, where I amongst other enjoyed a Stone Summer Ale on cask. From there on I continued with Nicolas to Territorio Bar and Untertürkheim for some rare Graf Zeppelon beers.

The next day I was heading south, down to Tandil. In Tandil the brewpub chain Antares has a location, and the microbrewery Quarryman is located there. Quarryman Ahumada proved to be a great rauchbier. Next stop was Santiago, where I was met by Panzerfaust, Lillith and Nigredo from Ratebeer. We spent some time at Sicosis, a perfect downtown bar for those who wants to sample Chilean microbrews. One brewery stood out very much: Szot. Despite great quality all the way through their line the Szot Strong Ale managed to stand out from their range. It is simply one of the greatest strong ales/barley wines I've come across. As this was summertime a lot of Chilean beers showed problems with infection.

From Santiago de Chile I headed northeast, all the way up to Iguasso Falls. These watefalls that straddles the border between Brazil and Argebtina are amongst the mightiest in the world. Not much good beer up here though. A short detour into Paraguay did not yield any new beers, or any beers at all for that matter.

Heading further north into rural areas of Brazil's Paraná province only resulted in a bunch of bland lagers. Instead I turned south again. Managed to find some rare El Infate Feik brews in Colon of the Entre Rios province in Argentina.

It was however upon returning to Buenos Aires that the real fun started. Armed with the legendary scooper Gazzas report I headed out on a brewpub crawl at lunch time. First stop was Rubia y Negra, sort of a sushi bar with 8 beers available, including a 12% and a fantastic Stout. From there on Buller is more or less around the corner. Buller is an American style brewpub with clean beers and a lovely patio.

In the evening I met Nicolas again at Cruzat Beer House. A magic place for beer rating with more than one hundred Argentinian microbrews, listed by provnince and city in their menu. Tried a couple of beers from Gülmen and to draught beers from Murray's here before moving on to what is possibly the most enjoyable brewpub in Bienos Aires, Cossab, where we somehow were invited to a private party. At this place I do belive I had my fair share of Cossab Bitter as well as some other Cossab beers, plus a good few otgher bottles from their wide selection of Argeninian bottles.

The next day I had lunch at Frankfurt, a tiny pancho stand serving amongst other a good range of Viejo Munich beers. The evening was spent doing a brewpub crawl in the Palermo district. First stop was Clandestina. A beatiful place with exellent service and food, serving so-so beers. Next up was Dalinger. It had however turned into the fancy night club-like Rina Bar & Tapas. They still served Dalingers beers, that were of generally high quality. Another establishment there was Dubliner, that serves two good beers made by them, but the brewery is elsewhere in town. Later on more time was spent digging throug the beer lists of Cruzat.

On my last day I went to Patio Cervecero, a posh pub chain establishment serving a wide range of beers from El Bolson plus some other micros before heading on to Bar de Cao, which is a lovely restaurant with their own beer. The one problem I had with this place was that the toilets were out of order. As this is not a bonus if you are on a pub crawl I had to hurry on to Cossab again to drink myself through the beer list there. This stop included a pint of Murray's Old Ale, which was the best of the beers I had in Argentina. It was however later surpassed by a take home bottle of Shopron Porter.

The beer hunt was finished on Munich airport at the brewpub Airbräu, which is certainly worthwile

Beers rated December 2006

POS

BEER

COUNTRY

Score

PS

LS

ABV

STYLE

69

Szot Strong Ale

Chile

4,57

5

12,0%

Ale, British style

197

Shopron Porter

Argentina

4,36

5-

4+

6,2%

Porter/Stout

237

Bersaglier Cream Stout

Argentina

4,31

5-

6,0%

Porter/Stout

237

Murray's Old Ale, draught

Argentina

4,31

5-

Ale, British style

663

Del Castillo Stout Ahumada

Argentina

4,04

4+

13,0%

Special

663

Quarryman Ahumada

Argentina

4,04

4+

5,0%

Special

663

Rubia y Negra Stout, draught

Argentina

4,04

4+

5,0%

Porter/Stout

663

Cossab Bitter Ale, draught

Argentina

4,04

4+

Ale, British style

913

Antares Porter

Argentina

4,01

4

4+

5,5%

Porter/Stout

1434

Stone Stout, draught

Argentina

3,78

4

4,8%

Porter/Stout

1434

Barba Roja Negra

Argentina

3,78

4

4,5%

Lager, Dark

1434

Araucana Bock

Argentina

3,78

4

7,2%

Lager, Bock

1434

Araucana Rojiza

Argentina

3,78

4

4,9%

Ale, British style

1434

Viejo Munich Roja

Argentina

3,78

4

5,0%

Ale, British style

1434

Szot Amber Ale

Chile

3,78

4

6,0%

Ale, British style

1434

Szot Rubia Al Vapor

Chile

3,78

4

6,0%

Special

1434

Szot Negra Stout

Chile

3,78

4

6,0%

Porter/Stout

2469

Stone Summer Ale, cask

Argentina

3,51

4-

5,0%

Ale, British style

2469

Antares Barley Wine

Argentina

3,51

4-

11,0%

Ale, British style

2469

Antares Cream Stout, draught

Argentina

3,51

4-

7,0%

Porter/Stout

2469

Antares Kölsch

Argentina

3,51

4-

5,0%

Ale, German style

2469

Koala Roja 12º, draught

Argentina

3,51

4-

12,0%

Ale, British style

2469

Dalinger Stout, draught

Argentina

3,51

4-

6,0%

Porter/Stout

2469

Graf Zeppelin Golden Ale

Argentina

3,51

4-

5,0%

Ale, British style

2469

Secretos del Monje del Abadia

Argentina

3,51

4-

6,0%

Ale, Belgian style

2469

Secretos del Monje Red Ale

Argentina

3,51

4-

6,0%

Ale, British style

2469

Corsario Negro Golden Ale

Argentina

3,51

4-

4,5%

Ale, British style

2469

Otro Mundo Strong Red Ale

Argentina

3,51

4-

7,5%

Ale, British style

2469

Cardos Barley Wine

Argentina

3,51

4-

12,0%

Ale, British style

2469

Szot Pale Ale

Chile

3,51

4-

6,0%

Ale, British style

2469

Pradera Oatmeal Stout

Argentina

3,51

4-

5,5%

Porter/Stout

2469

Rubia y Negra Barley Wine, draught

Argentina

3,51

4-

12,0%

Ale, British style

2469

Rubia y Negra Scotch Ale, draught

Argentina

3,51

4-

6,0%

Ale, British style

2469

Murray's Irish Dry Stout, draught

Argentina

3,51

4-

4,5%

Porter/Stout

2469

Gülmen Red Ale

Argentina

3,51

4-

6,0%

Ale, British style

2469

Cossab Negra, draught

Argentina

3,51

4-

6,0%

Porter/Stout

2469

Danker Bier Stout

Argentina

3,51

4-

5,2%

Porter/Stout

2469

Danker Bier Munich

Argentina

3,51

4-

5,2%

Lager, Light

2469

Valle del Tafì Rubia

Argentina

3,51

4-

6,1%

Ale, British style

2469

Valle del Tafì Negra

Argentina

3,51

4-

7,3%

Porter/Stout

3672

Cardos Lager Pilsen

Argentina

3,27

3+

3+

6,0%

Lager, Light

3757

Quilmes Stout

Argentina

3,25

3+

4,8%

Porter/Stout

3757

Antares Imperial Stout, draught

Argentina

3,25

3+

8,5%

Porter/Stout

3757

Antares Scotch, draught

Argentina

3,25

3+

6,0%

Ale, British style

3757

Koala Strong Ale, draught

Argentina

3,25

3+

11,0%

Ale, British style

3757

Dalinger Belgian Ale, draught

Argentina

3,25

3+

6,5%

Ale, Belgian style

3757

Dalinger Brown Ale, draught

Argentina

3,25

3+

6,0%

Ale, British style

3757

Graf Zeppelin Robust Porter

Argentina

3,25

3+

6,0%

Porter/Stout

3757

Corsario Negro Oatmeal Stout

Argentina

3,25

3+

5,0%

Porter/Stout

3757

Los Ilegales Negra Fuerte

Argentina

3,25

3+

5,2%

Porter/Stout

3757

Blest Bock

Argentina

3,25

3+

5,8%

Lager, Bock

3757

Kross Golden Ale

Chile

3,25

3+

5,4%

Ale, British style

3757

Cerveza D’Olbek

Chile

3,25

3+

4,5%

Lager, Light

3757

Del Puerto Barba Negra

Chile

3,25

3+

5,2%

Porter/Stout

3757

Austral Calafate Ale

Chile

3,25

3+

5,0%

Special

3757

Cerveza Artesanal de Pirque Lager

Chile

3,25

3+

6,5%

Lager, Bock

3757

Pradera Pale Ale

Argentina

3,25

3+

5,5%

Ale, British style

3757

Murray's IPA, draught

Argentina

3,25

3+

7,5%

Ale, British style

3757

Dubliners Roja, draught

Argentina

3,25

3+

6,0%

Ale, British style

3757

Stauffen Roja

Argentina

3,25

3+

5,2%

Ale, British style

3757

Salvattore Nera

Argentina

3,25

3+

6,0%

Porter/Stout

3757

La Serrana Stout

Argentina

3,25

3+

5,0%

Porter/Stout

3757

Baires Strong Amber

Argentina

3,25

3+

4,5%

Lager, Dark

3757

Sumerios Golden Ale

Argentina

3,25

3+

6,0%

Ale, British style

3757

Airbräu Kumulus, draught

Germany

3,25

3+

5,4%

Wheat beer

3757

Airbräu FliegerQuell, draught

Germany

3,25

3+

5,2%

Lager, Light

5123

Koala Stout, draught

Argentina

2,98

3

Porter/Stout

5123

Dalinger Golden Ale, draught

Argentina

2,98

3

6,5%

Ale, British style

5123

Del Castillo Barley Wine

Argentina

2,98

3

15,0%

Ale, British style

5123

Del Castillo Porter

Argentina

2,98

3

5,2%

Porter/Stout

5123

Del Castillo Stout Pimienta

Argentina

2,98

3

14,0%

Special

5123

Viejo Munich Negra

Argentina

2,98

3

8,0%

Lager, Bock

5123

Secretos del Monje Brown Ale

Argentina

2,98

3

Ale, British style

5123

Corsario Negro Black Porter

Argentina

2,98

3

5,0%

Porter/Stout

5123

Quarryman Negra

Argentina

2,98

3

5,0%

Porter/Stout

5123

Del Puerto Genuine Ale

Chile

2,98

3

4,9%

Ale, British style

5123

Rubia y Negra Pilsen Bohemia, draught

Argentina

2,98

3

5,5%

Lager, Light

5123

Rubia y Negra Weissbier, draught

Argentina

2,98

3

5,0%

Wheat beer

5123

Rubia y Negra Golden Ale, draught

Argentina

2,98

3

Ale, British style

5123

Cossab Brown Ale, draught

Argentina

2,98

3

6,5%

Ale, British style

5123

Munster Roja

Argentina

2,98

3

4,5%

Ale, British style

5123

Stauffen Negra

Argentina

2,98

3

5,2%

Porter/Stout

6190

Stone XB Bitter, draught

Argentina

2,72

3-

5,5%

Ale, British style

6190

Antares Honey Beer, draught

Argentina

2,72

3-

7,5%

Ale, British style

6190

Koala Imperial Stout, draught

Argentina

2,72

3-

Porter/Stout

6190

Koala Kölsch, draught

Argentina

2,72

3-

6,5%

Ale, German style

6190

Viejo Munich Trigo

Argentina

2,72

3-

5,0%

Wheat beer

6190

Quarryman Dorada

Argentina

2,72

3-

5,0%

Ale, British style

6190

La Movediza Negra

Argentina

2,72

3-

5,0%

Ale, British style

6190

Jerome Diablo

Argentina

2,72

3-

7,5%

Ale, British style

6190

Jerome Roja

Argentina

2,72

3-

6,0%

Ale, British style

6190

Del Puerto Barba Roja

Chile

2,72

3-

5,2%

Ale, British style

6190

Petrópolis Petra Premium

Brazil

2,72

3-

4,4%

Lager, Dark

6190

Crystal Malzbier

Brazil

2,72

3-

4,2%

Lager, Dark

6190

El Infante Feik Stout 60

Argentina

2,72

3-

5,0%

Porter/Stout

6190

Murray's Export Scottish Ale, draught

Argentina

2,72

3-

4,8%

Ale, British style

6190

Dubliners Negra, draught

Argentina

2,72

3-

6,0%

Porter/Stout

6190

Rako Roja

Argentina

2,72

3-

5,5%

Ale, British style

6190

Clandestina Stout, draught

Argentina

2,72

3-

6,0%

Porter/Stout

6190

Valhalla Porter

Argentina

2,72

3-

5,9%

Porter/Stout

7054

Quilmes Bock

Argentina

2,45

2+

6,3%

Lager, Bock

7054

Barba Roja Winner

Argentina

2,45

2+

4,8%

Lager, Dark

7054

Otro Mundo Golden Ale

Argentina

2,45

2+

5,5%

Ale, British style

7054

Jerome Suave

Argentina

2,45

2+

3,5%

Lager, Light

7054

Kunstmann Lager

Chile

2,45

2+

4,0%

Lager, Light

7054

Kunstmann Bock

Chile

2,45

2+

5,3%

Lager, Dark

7054

Cerveza Artesanal de Pirque Bock

Chile

2,45

2+

6,5%

Lager, Bock

7054

Cerveza Colonos del Llanquihue

Chile

2,45

2+

4,8%

Lager, Light

7054

El Infante Feik Trigo

Argentina

2,45

2+

5,0%

Wheat beer

7054

Rubia y Negra Cream Ale, draught

Argentina

2,45

2+

4,5%

Ale, British style

7054

Buller Light Lager, draught

Argentina

2,45

2+

4,5%

Lager, Light

7054

Buller Honey Beer, draught

Argentina

2,45

2+

8,5%

Special

7054

Buller Oktoberfest, draught

Argentina

2,45

2+

5,5%

Lager, Dark

7054

Buller India Pale Ale, draught

Argentina

2,45

2+

6,0%

Ale, British style

7054

Gülmen Lager Ahumada

Argentina

2,45

2+

5,3%

Special

7054

Clandestina Red Bitter, draught

Argentina

2,45

2+

6,0%

Ale, British style

7054

Chopp de Cao, draught

Argentina

2,45

2+

Lager, Light

7759

Brahma Morena

Argentina

2,19

2

5,3%

Lager, Dark

7759

Brahma Bock

Argentina

2,19

2

6,2%

Lager, Bock

7759

Dalinger Imperial Stout, draught

Argentina

2,19

2

Porter/Stout

7759

Viejo Munich Bock

Argentina

2,19

2

5,4%

Lager, Dark

7759

Isenbeck Dark

Argentina

2,19

2

4,6%

Lager, Dark

7759

Kunstmann Torobayo Pale Ale

Chile

2,19

2

5,0%

Ale, British style

7759

Gutmann Oceanik

Chile

2,19

2

4,5%

Ale, British style

7759

Cerveza Cristal Red Ale

Chile

2,19

2

5,5%

Ale, British style

7759

Colônia Malzbier

Brazil

2,19

2

3,5%

Lager, Dark

7759

El Bolson con Miel

Argentina

2,19

2

6,3%

Special

7759

Buller Cream Ale, draught

Argentina

2,19

2

5,2%

Ale, British style

7759

Buller Dry Stout, draught

Argentina

2,19

2

5,8%

Porter/Stout

7759

Heberling Dorada

Argentina

2,19

2

4,9%

Ale, British style

7759

Salvattore Rossa

Argentina

2,19

2

5,0%

Ale, British style

8289

Mar del Plata

Argentina

1,92

2-

4,4%

Lager, Light

8289

Viejo Munich Negra Ahumada

Argentina

1,92

2-

5,4%

Special

8289

Kross Chocolate Stout

Chile

1,92

2-

5,2%

Porter/Stout

8289

Imperial Cerveza Especial

Argentina

1,92

2-

5,5%

Lager, Light

8289

Austral Patagona Pale Ale

Chile

1,92

2-

5,0%

Ale, British style

8289

Cerveza Capital Amber Ale

Chile

1,92

2-

5,5%

Ale, British style

8289

Brahma Liber

Brazil

1,92

2-

0,0%

Lager, Light

8289

Belco Pilsen

Brazil

1,92

2-

4,7%

Lager, Light

8289

Belco Chopp

Brazil

1,92

2-

4,7%

Lager, Light

8289

El Bolson Rubia

Argentina

1,92

2-

5,2%

Lager, Light

8289

El Bolson con Aji

Argentina

1,92

2-

5,2%

Special

8289

Scheitler Negra

Argentina

1,92

2-

5,0%

Porter/Stout

8289

Clandestina Golden Ale, draught

Argentina

1,92

2-

6,0%

Ale, British style

8289

Clandestina Purpura Americana, draught

Argentina

1,92

2-

Special

8755

Isenbeck Premium

Argentina

1,66

1+

4,6%

Lager, Light

8755

Iguana

Argentina

1,66

1+

5,2%

Lager, Light

8755

Schneider Fuerte

Argentina

1,66

1+

6,0%

Lager, Bock

8755

Jerome Rubia

Argentina

1,66

1+

6,0%

Ale, British style

8755

Cerveza Escudo

Chile

1,66

1+

5,2%

Lager, Light

8755

Royal Guard

Chile

1,66

1+

4,6%

Lager, Light

8755

Puerto del Sol

Brazil

1,66

1+

4,3%

Lager, Light

8755

Danker Bier Gold

Argentina

1,66

1+

4,6%

Ale, British style

8755

Clandestina Doble Gringa, draught

Argentina

1,66

1+

Ale, British style

8755

Bierland Stout

Argentina

1,66

1+

4,5%

Porter/Stout

8755

Tango Porteño Morocho del Abasto

Argentina

1,66

1+

Porter/Stout

9144

Andes

Argentina

1,39

1

5,5%

Lager, Light

9144

Schneider Cerveza Rubia

Argentina

1,39

1

4,7%

Lager, Light

9144

Bersaglier Scottish Ale

Argentina

1,39

1

6,0%

Ale, British style

9144

Palermo

Argentina

1,39

1

4,9%

Lager, Light

9144

Valbier Red Ale

Chile

1,39

1

5,0%

Ale, British style

9144

Belco Sem Alcool

Brazil

1,39

1

0,5%

Lager, Light

9144

Conti Pilsen

Brazil

1,39

1

4,7%

Lager, Light

9144

Rubia y Negra Cerveza de Abadias Trappist, draught

Argentina

1,39

1

9,0%

Ale, Belgian style

9144

Santa Cerva

Brazil

1,39

1

4,0%

Lager, Light

9419

Quilmes Liberty

Argentina

1,12

1-

0,5%

Lager, Light

9419

Die M Dunkel

Chile

1,12

1-

Lager, Dark

9419

Baltica Dry

Chile

1,12

1-

5,8%

Lager, Light

9419

Pradera Brown Ale

Argentina

1,12

1-

5,5%

Ale, British style

9419

Lecker Cerveja Clara Pilsen

Brazil

1,12

1-

4,5%

Lager, Light

9419

Krill Pilsen

Brazil

1,12

1-

4.5%

Lager, Light

9419

Crystal Sem Álcool

Brazil

1,12

1-

0,5%

Lager, Light

9610

Nova Schin NS2

Brazil

0,86

0+

4,2%

Special

9610

Moydrum Red Ale

Argentina

0,86

0+

5,5%

Ale, British style

9688

Colônia Pilsen

Brazil

0,59

0

4,0%

Lager, Light

Rated by: Per Samuelsson & Lars Samuelsson

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Updated 2007-03-06 Per Samuelsson